La Palma’s attractions in the northwest are perfect for travelers seeking authenticity rather than the typical postcard scenes.
While the south revolves around the 2021 volcano and the east around the capital, the northwest remains the quiet, unspoiled face of the island, ancient dragon trees, a hidden pirate cove, the highest peak with its observatories, and farmers’ markets where time seems to move more slowly. Those who live in the northwest have all of this right on their doorstep, without crowds and without long drives.
Roque de los Muchachos: The peak above the clouds
No place defines the northwest quite like the Roque de los Muchachos. At 2,426 meters, it is the highest point on La Palma and crowns the northern edge of the Caldera de Taburiente, which is part of the municipality of Garafía. From up here, usually above a sea of trade wind clouds, the view on clear days extends all the way to Tenerife, La Gomera, and El Hierro.
The summit is also one of the most important astronomical sites on Earth. Anyone interested in understanding the science behind it will find a comprehensive overview of the mountain and its observatory on the Wikipedia page for Roque de los Muchachos.
From the northwestern highlands, the drive along the winding LP-4 is shorter than from the coast, which makes it much easier to leave early to catch the sunrise.
Observatories Up Close: The Visitor Center
If you want to do more than just see the domes from the outside—if you want to truly understand astronomy—you should make time to visit the observatories’ visitor center. It explains why this particular mountain became a window into the universe: its elevation above the cloud line, stable air thanks to the trade winds, and strict regulations against light pollution.
The official Roque de los Muchachos Visitor Center provides information on exhibits and guided tours of the telescopes, which must be booked in advance. For families and technology enthusiasts, it’s one of the most rewarding attractions in the northwest, especially on days when clouds shroud the summit itself.
The Dragon Trees of Buracas near Las Tricias
Few sights symbolize La Palma as much as the dragon tree, and nowhere is the experience more atmospheric than near Las Tricias in Garafía.
The short dragon tree hike from Las Tricias to the Buracas dragon tree grove leads through terraced fields to ancient specimens whose sap turns red when exposed to the air. The indigenous people called it “dragon’s blood” and used it for rituals and as a remedy.
Along the same trail lies the Cueva de Buracas, an archaeological and ethnographic site featuring ancient caves and petroglyphs of the Benahoaritas.
The hike is easy, usually taking one to two hours to complete, and combines nature, culture, and the island’s history within a small area. To locate these and other destinations in the northwest, the La Palma Map website provides an overview of viewpoints and places of interest.
Poris de Candelaria: The Hidden Pirate Bay
Hidden along the cliffs of Tijarafe lies one of the island’s most unusual places. Poris de Candelaria, popularly known as Pirate Bay, is sheltered beneath a massive rock overhang.
About twenty small white stone houses nestle in the cave, once said to have been a refuge for pirates and smugglers, but now used primarily by fishermen, especially on weekends.
The cove can be reached by car via an adventurous, winding road or by taking a steep hiking trail down from Tijarafe.
The scenery is especially magical in the afternoon, when the sun reaches even the farthest corners of the cave. Those who prefer to avoid the strenuous hike up and down can also admire the bay on a boat tour departing from Puerto de Tazacorte.
Puntagorda Market and the Izcagua Lookout
For a glimpse into authentic island life, there’s no better place than the Puntagorda farmers’ market. Located in the El Fayal recreational area, surrounded by old pine trees, the Mercadillo Puntagorda is open on Saturdays from 3:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. and on Sundays from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m.
About forty stalls offer fruit, goat cheese, honey, wine, mojos, and the region’s famous almond pastries, along with handcrafted items made of ceramics, wicker, and wood.
Right next to the market hall is the Mirador de Izcagua, a modern lookout point with a spectacular view into the deep Barranco de Izcagua, which forms the border between Puntagorda and Garafía. The market and the Mirador can be perfectly combined with a walk or a barbecue stop in the El Fayal forest—a relaxing morning that only the northwest can offer.
A Northwest Worth Exploring
What sets the Northwest apart is the proximity of all these places to one another, combined with a deep sense of tranquility. From a base in the highlands, you can reach mountain peaks, the coast, dragon trees, and markets in no time, without ever getting caught up in crowds of tourists. This is exactly what guests who stay here appreciate:
Absolute tranquility, a magnificent starry sky, and plenty of privacy—we’ll be back.
Guest review, July 2025
Instead of driving for hours every day, here you can take your time exploring one place after another and wind down in the evening under one of the darkest skies in Europe. This way, the Northwest doesn’t become just a checklist—it becomes a region you truly get to know.
Direct advantage, private booking is worthwhile
Direct bookers receive the best communication and personal support. No agency fees, full transparency and tips that only hosts give. In addition, there is our small Hacienda Insider program with advance information on new accommodations and seasonal specials for returning guests.
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Short and sweet, your questions answered
Short and sweet, your questions answered
Where is the best place to live on La Palma? in the quiet, high-altitude location of Garafía, with privacy, sun above the clouds and direct access to nature.
Who is La Palma suitable for? for those seeking peace and quiet, couples, hikers, stargazers and wine lovers
Is La Palma overcrowded? No, the northwest in particular is spacious and quiet, and the hacienda offers an additional secluded location.
Which part has the best weather? Often the northwest above the cloud line with many sunny days and cool nights.
How many days are worthwhile? 7 to 10 nights are ideal, for deep relaxation 12 to 14.
Above the clouds of La Palma means breathing, looking, being silent, marveling. The Hacienda La Palma, a winery in Garafía, combines independent vacation homes in a secluded location, a solar-heated pool, direct access to the forest and a starry sky without light pollution. If peace, nature and genuine hosts are important to you, then you’ve come to the right place. Enquire about your preferred dates, we will advise you personally and look forward to meeting you.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
1. What are the most beautiful sights in the northwest of La Palma?
Highlights include the Roque de los Muchachos with its observatories, the dragon trees and caves of Buracas near Las Tricias, the hidden pirate cove of Poris de Candelaria near Tijarafe, and the farmers’ market in Puntagorda with the Mirador de Izcagua. All are located in the municipalities of Garafía, Puntagorda, and Tijarafe.
2. Is it worth visiting the Roque de los Muchachos from the northwest?
Very much so. The summit is located in the municipality of Garafía, and the drive via the LP-4 is shorter from the northwestern highlands than from the coast. This makes it easier to set out early for sunrise and visit on clear mornings, before clouds often form in the afternoon.
3. How do you get to Poris de Candelaria, the “Pirate’s Bay”?
From Tijarafe, a steep, winding dirt road leads down by car to a parking lot near the cove; from there, it’s just a few minutes’ walk. Alternatively, there’s a challenging hiking trail or boat tours from Puerto de Tazacorte that offer a particularly beautiful view of the cave.
4. When is the Puntagorda farmers’ market open?
The Mercadillo in the El Fayal recreational area is open Saturdays from 3:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. and Sundays from 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Sunday morning is considered the best time to visit, with more stalls and a livelier atmosphere. Parking is limited, so it’s worth arriving early.
5. Are the dragon trees of Buracas easy to reach?
Yes. From Las Tricias in Garafía, an easy one- to two-hour loop hike leads to the dragon tree grove and the Cueva de Buracas with its petroglyphs. The trail is easy to walk and is also suitable for families and less experienced hikers.
The most beautiful sights in northwestern La Palma share one thing in common: they show the island as it truly is—unspoiled, peaceful, and full of character. Those who stay here and take their time exploring will discover dragon trees, observatories, and hidden coves not as items on a sightseeing itinerary, but as part of their immediate surroundings.
